Eating Out: Paperino's

Aug 29 2012 By Tristan Stewart-Robertson

Paperino's Image 3

Address: 227 Byres Road, Telephone: 334 3811, Web: www.paperinos.co.uk/fantinel.aspx

PAPERINOS is a well-established name in Glasgow with one of its two homes being in Byres Road.

Now the front of the venue has been given a makeover and become Fantinel, a prosecco bar aiming to suit everyone in the west end.

Also open in the morning with a small breakfast option, the restaurant’s new bar space is a welcome addition to one of the most competitive markets in the city.

So when in Rome, or at least when in a prosecco bar, we decided to start with a glass of the prosecco extra dry and the Fantinel rose (both £4.25) to sip through the meal.

Fantinel has its own bar menu, so my companion selected the trio of crostini – three slices of toasted Italian bread topped with tomato and basil, smoked salmon and mascarpone, brie and pancetta (£4.50).

I went for the arrosticini, three chargrilled beef skewers, which were tasty, though only mildly warm when they arrived (£4.50).

We then selected from Paperinos’ a la carte menu. My friend choose the pappardelle monteprandone pasta with pesto, rocket, sun-dried tomatoes and mascarpone (£9.95).

I selected the tortelloni rossi, a ravioli with ricotta cheese and spinach in a creamy tomato sauce with red peppers (also £9.95).

Both were delicious, and both sufficiently rich that we had to leave some to save room for dessert. One of our four servers was so friendly my companion thought it was an act, which says a great deal about how unfamiliar this country is with good service.

This particular female staff member deserves praise. Being asked if we’d like a “pause” after the main course was a welcome change to venues where you are immediately asked to choose dessert.

We did find room for dessert and we were both relieved at the portions. My friend went for white chocolate and vanilla cheesecake (£5.25) and I picked the triple chocolate fudge cake (also £5.25). As a diabetic, I was relieved to get a suitably small portion.

Just because Paperinos is established doesn’t mean it resists change, and it was an enjoyable evening seeing how they’re bringing that in with Fantinel.