Jun 13 2012 By Ben Spencer
Koh I Noor Image 2
INDIAN restaurants used to have a sense of occasion about them.
Back in the day a trip to your local curry house would be like a visit to another world, with traditional music playing, ornate furnishings and serving staff in authentic dress.
Then came the backlash. Interiors were stripped back and many restaurants ditched banquet menus in favour of tapas-style portions.
Neither approach is wrong and I was delighted to find the traditional style at the Koh-I-Noor – only with top quality food.
There’s a sense of occasion here. Diners sit on ornate red chairs and colourful paintings line the walls beneath a magnificent chandelier.
The Koh-I-Noor prides itself on its buffet. Situated in the middle of the restaurant, it has many dishes.
It’s also competitively priced. On a midweek night, a pal and I enjoyed three courses for only £13.50.
Those of you with heartier appetites will love the fact you can return again and again until you are full. No meagre tapas portions here.
For starters, spiced garlic mushrooms were rich but more-ish and I enjoyed sampling the chicken and vegetable versions of the pakora. The fish pakora had a decent kick in the coating while the onion bhajis were well executed.
For mains, the chicken korma had plenty of meat while the chicken tikka had a stronger flavour.
Owner Waseem Tahir suggested we try a dish from the a la carte menu – chicken Manchurian curry (£9.95).
This had small chicken tikka pieces cooked in a sweet sauce. We enjoyed our curries with rice and naans so fluffy, they were like pancakes.
Try to leave room for dessert too, as the Gulab Jaman was excellent.
The Koh-I-Noor is a bargain, with top-notch service from attentive staff.
And it was nice to once again eat an Indian meal and feel like it was a bit of an occasion.