Eating Out: Paperino's @ 78

Jul 2 2009 By Peter Carroll

78 St Vincent Street, Tel: 248 7878. Web: www.paperinos.co.uk

PAPERINO'S now have a trio of fantastic eateries for Glaswegians to visit.

Opened last month, the new venue at the former 78 St Vincent restaurant joins the family-owned company's two other venues in Sauchiehall Street and Byres Road.

As a fan of these great pizza and pasta parlours, I was keen as mustard to check out the new venue.

A bank in a past life, I'd always thought 78 St Vincent looked really dull.

But the bright new interior, dominated by spacious booths on the ground floor and a further dining balcony area, illuminates Paperino's @ 78 perfectly.

Once seated in one of the booths we ordered at Pironi lager for me (£3) and a glass of house rose (£4.65) for my companion while we perused the menu.

We both knew our way around it and wasted no time ordering. For starters, I chose the stuffed mushrooms packed with mixed vegetables and served with a delicious seafood sauce (£5.70). My fiancee decided on the tomato, Parma ham and fresh mozzarella bruschetta (£5.90). We also shared a bowl of olives marinated in extra virgin garlic oil (£2.50).

I'd heard good things about Paperino's pizzas and was in the mood for some heavy-duty carbs, so I went for the salsicca - tomato, mozzarella, Italian sausage and chilli peppers (£8.70).

Keeping it simple, my dinner guest opted for the papperdelle alla carbonara (£8.90).

There was a mix-up with the bruschetta as my guest ended up with the tomato and basil version (£4.95).

It turned out to be magnificent with heaps of sweet tomatoes, drizzled in oil on two slabs of toasted Italian bread.

My six large, fried mushrooms were amazing. Although deep-fried, they weren't swimming in grease and tasted superb.

The sauce was also a change from the garlic mayo you get everywhere else. Even though the starters were already winning us over, the main courses really sealed the deal.

Stefano Giovanazzi, co-owner with brother Sandro, popped over to say hello as he does with all his customers and I couldn't help but rave about my pizza.

Regular visitors to Cassino in Italy, where my fiancee's family have a home, I remarked how my main course reminded me of the pizzas we get there. Large, thin and light, the salsicca was amazing. The fresh tomato puree, authentic sausage and fiery chillis made me want to board a plane to Italia.

The carbonara also had the same effect. Apart from perfect bacon, a helping of olive oil just added to this delicious dish.

To finish I ordered a cappuccino (£2.10), while my good lady devoured her Scottish tablet ice-cream (£4.50).

What a great meal: 10 out of 10 and three from three at Paperino's. Bring on a fourth restaurant.